The bish bash bosh of happy women and men cooking in vibrant steamy kitchens and serving huge plates of dirty meals in multiple refurbished 40-foot boxes is a uniquely life-maintaining and pleasing element. It’s an unprecedented sight, yet it’s occurring right under our noses in east Belfast each day.

Noisy, merry, and compellingly infectious, entering through the sliding door of Freight in CS Lewis Square is like on foot into a bar on a Friday night in which all of your favored pals, entertainers, comedians, musicians, and other existence-improving horrific agency have been awaiting you. Even on a moist Sunday afternoon, Freight – these days rebranded restaurant opened using brothers Gerry and Christy McQuillan – has all the birthday celebration vibes and a soundtrack to faucet to reinvigorate those endorphins and dopamine.

Front of house is Marc Salley, recently back from a winter within the ski hotels of the Alps and certainly bronzed and buffed. But Marc’s no longer pretty much the coolest seems. His were given shape. Years at Deanes and later at Noble, he knows an aspect or two of approximately an element, including carrier, temper judgment, and wines. You may think he is wasted in a place this is BYO. However, this is a brief state of affairs that Marc and the McQuillans wish to rectify within the coming days. After which, count on to be handled to some of the more interesting wines in Belfast at cheap charges.

Freight is all about democracy. It is an extremely good food and carrier party at expenses maximum people can have the funds for. It was an aggregate of the two inspirations in my life: the adviser and writer and logician Joe Nawaz, who share an alarmingly obsessive love and encyclopedic know-how of David Bowie and who regularly switch Bowie records via Instagram.

Joe published a photograph of a meal he becomes approximately to eat in Freight, and this became so in contrast to him; the whole thing stopped in our residence for a minute even as his post became checked out. It turns out he intended it. So off we went on Sunday for brunch, mother-in-law, and teen in tow, to peer if he changed into right.

The box as a wacky venue has grown to be greater mainstream; it’s the eating place, the food, and carrier, consolation and mild, which seduce you and call for you to return over and over. Here is food that’s huge and ambitious with the aid of Belfast standards, at the very fringe of the boundary where street food meets stylish compositions and where Korean kimchi is as welcome and mainstream as a gherkin in McDonald’s simply across the road from right here.

There are waffles and bao buns, pancakes, pulled pork bennies, meatball sandwiches, and a wealthy vegetarian and vegan board of choice. The dishes match the temper pe perfectly. Big beardy Michael Hinds offers greater enjoyment and knowledge in his particular fashion of hospitality anthe d the tips are laid down in reality and assertively. Don’t pass past the Korean chook and, ooh, you must seriously don’t forget the nduja meatball sandwich.